By Mick O'Brien · carpenter & builder · sheds-to-homes, cabins and things that stay up in a storm

“After losing a 6x4mm timber-framed cabin to a gale on a flat slab, I now insist on concrete piers for anything built to last an Australian storm.”

Trailer vs Permanent: The Straight Facts

Stop overcomplicating this. Your choice isn't about "which is better" – it's about what you actually need.

Trailer (Mobile, But Not Always Free)

• Pros: Move it if you want (within legal towing limits), no building permits (usually), cheaper setup.
• Cons: Can't build big (max 4.5m wide in most states), needs constant leveling, and you're stuck with the trailer forever if you want to stay put.
• Australian reality: If you're on a trailer, you still need council approval for where you park it (especially in rural areas). Bunnings sells trailer hitch kits from $120 – but check your car's towing capacity first. Don't be that bloke who cracks his chassis.

Permanent (Stuck in the Ground, But Solid)

• Pros: Build bigger, no leveling headaches, easy to install off-grid systems (solar, rainwater), no towing worries.
• Cons: Requires permits, costs more upfront, you're stuck where you put it.
• Australian reality: If you want to live off-grid long-term, permanent is the only sensible option. Councils won't let you park a tiny house on a trailer for more than 3 months in most areas – unless you're on a farm with a permit.

Leveling: Don't Be That Guy Who Has to Fix It Later

Leveling isn't optional. It's the difference between a comfy home and a nightmare.

• Use a proper spirit level (not your phone app – they're useless). Bunnings sells a 2m level for $25. That's it.
• For trailers: Park on flat ground, then use timber blocks (Bunnings: $15 for 4 blocks) under the wheels. Check level front-to-back and side-to-side. If it's not level, it'll leak, sag, and make you want to scream.
• For permanent: Dig out the site, pour concrete piers (or use steel piers). Don't skip the geotech report if you're on clay soil – it'll save you $2k in repairs later.

Permits: The Paperwork You Can't Skip

Permits aren't a suggestion. They're the law. Skip them, and you'll be paying for a permit + fines + demolition.

Trailer Tiny Houses

• Most councils treat them as vehicles. You need a vehicle registration (not a building permit) if you're on a trailer.
• But: If you park it on private land for more than 3 months, you'll need a land use permit from council. Always call your local council first – don't assume.

Permanent Foundations

• Requires a building permit. Cost: $500–$2,000 depending on council (e.g., Brisbane $800, Sydney $1,200).
• Need structural plans from a draftsperson (cost: $300–$800). Don't DIY – councils reject 70% of amateur plans.
• Australian suppliers: Use a local draftsperson (check draftspersons.com.au). They'll know your council's rules.

Australian Pricing (indicative prices, No Fluff)

• Trailer: New trailer (4.5m x 2.5m): $3,500–$6,000 (Gumtree used: $1,200–$2,500).
• Permanent foundation: Concrete piers (4x): $400–$800 (labour included). Slab (20m²): $1,000–$2,500 (concrete Australia quote).
• Leveling blocks: Bunnings timber blocks: $15 for 4. Don't buy plastic – they break.

Final Word

If you're off-grid in Australia, permanent foundation is the only way to go. Trailer is a distraction for people who don't want to do the work. Level properly. Get permits. Then stop worrying and start living.

When to Call a Professional

While many off-grid projects are achievable as DIY, certain situations require licensed professionals:

• Electrical work beyond basic 12V DC additions — requires a licensed electrician
• Structural modifications to buildings or load-bearing elements
• Gas line installation or modification
• Solar array installations above safe voltage thresholds
• Any work that affects the structural integrity of your property

Always check local regulations and obtain necessary permits before commencing work.