By Dave Miller· off-grid sparky · 22 years wiring solar, batteries and sheds in central QLD
“After a $4,000 cell mismatch in a 20kWh bank nearly burned my shed in 2019, I now balance every cell manually before wiring a 32kWh build.”
Huge 32Kwh Lifepo4 Diy Battery Build — Essential knowledge for Australian off-grid living
Huge 32kWh LiFePO4 DIY Battery Build
Hook six hundred and twenty-eight amp-hours of LiFePO4 cells into a 16S 48V pack and you have a monstrous 32 kWh energy storage system weighing over 270 kg. This thing can charge an electric vehicle, run a whole house, or power a small workshop indefinitely. I based this guide on Will Prowse's build of exactly that battery, covering assembly, capacity testing, real-world performance and the critical safety lessons that come with handling batteries of this scale.
Video credit: DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse on YouTube. One of the most respected voices in DIY solar and battery building.
Why Go This Big?
I've spent 22 years wiring solar, batteries and sheds in central QLD, and most DIY builds use 280Ah or 304Ah cells to make 14 to 15 kWh packs, which is a solid foundation for a small off-grid home. But some applications demand significantly more storage.
Whole-house off-grid systems in areas with extended cloudy periods (southern Australia in winter, for example)
EV charging from solar: a single EV charge session can draw 10 to 15 kWh. With a 32 kWh battery, you can charge your car and still have reserves for the house.
Workshop and farm loads: welders, compressors and heavy tools draw substantial energy
Reducing generator runtime: more storage means fewer generator starts during prolonged bad weather
By the numbers: Will's capacity test pulled 672.91 Ah from the battery, which is 107% of the rated 628Ah capacity. That translates to approximately 34.2 kWh of actual usable energy. Impressive cells.
The Build Process
Despite the enormity of the job, the build follows the same steps as a smaller pack. We're using prismatic LiFePO4 cells wired 16S for a nominal 48V system.
Cell Preparation
The 628Ah cells are physically large and extremely heavy. Each cell weighs approximately 17 kg. The complete pack with BMS, cabling, and enclosure exceeds 270 kg. Will chose to build the battery on a pallet so it could be moved with a pallet jack.
Arrange cells in alternating polarity: negative, positive, negative, positive.
Insert cells into the enclosure. The fit was described as "tight" with these massive cells. Take care not to short terminals against the enclosure walls.
Install bus bars. These cells use screw-type bus bar connections rather than bolt-through terminals, which Will noted makes tightening significantly easier.
Connect bottom cells to top cells with a bridging bus bar to complete the series string.
Attach BMS sensing wires and power cables.
Build time: Will completed the assembly in approximately 90 minutes. This reflects his extensive experience. For a first-time builder, allow a full day. Do not rush work on a battery that stores enough energy to weld steel.
Capacity Testing: The Full Procedure
Will runs a rigorous two-stage capacity test on every battery he builds. Here is the protocol:
Stage 1: Full Charge
Charge at 100A (approximately 5 kW) until all cells reach the absorption voltage set in the BMS.
At 100A, a 628Ah pack takes roughly 6 hours to fully charge from empty. That is 5,000W sustained for six hours.
Configure the BMS capacity setting to match your cells. The default password on many BMS units is 1234 or 123456.
Stage 2: Full Discharge
Here is where things get creative. Moving 32kWh of energy isn't trivial. Running that through resistive heat loads would literally overheat the workshop. Will's solution was to use an EV charger as the load, effectively pushing the energy back into a Tesla.
Discharge via a NEMA 14-50 outlet at 240V through a Level 2 EV charger.
This provided a true high-rate discharge test at approximately 6,000W (117A at 48V).
The result: 672.91 Ah delivered, confirming 107% of rated capacity.
Real-World Performance: EV Charging
After testing, Will mounted the battery on a heavy-duty cart to create a mobile EV charging station. The results:
Metric
Result
Charging rate
32A at 240V (Level 2)
Battery current draw
152A from the 48V pack
Range added (Tesla Model 3)
~144 miles (232 km)
Range added (Tesla Model X)
~86 miles (139 km)
Miles added in test
88 miles (142 km)
For Australian off-gridders: Pair a 32 kWh battery with a 10 kW solar array and you could charge an EV entirely from solar every day, with energy left over for household loads. Our solar calculator can help you model this scenario.
Safety: This Is Not a Small Battery
Will is refreshingly honest about the safety risks with batteries this size. During the video shoot, he dropped a 45 kg server rack battery on his foot and ended up with serious soft tissue damage. He was on crutches for days.
Will's hard-won advice: "These batteries are no joke. I need to think about this more when I talk about these batteries and give recommendations." A 270 kg battery pack, if it shifts or tips, can cause severe injury or death.
Handling Heavy Batteries Safely
Use proper lifting equipment. Will purchased a forklift for his workshop specifically because of this incident. For home builders, an engine hoist or at minimum a sturdy trolley with rated capacity is essential.
Never lift heavy batteries with ropes attached low. Will noted the lifting straps bent under the weight. Attach lifting points as high on the object as possible.
Build in place when possible. For a stationary installation, assemble the battery where it will live permanently. Moving 270 kg across a workshop floor is dangerous.
Wear steel-cap boots. Not negotiable when handling anything over 20 kg.
Work with a partner. 300 kg is manageable with several people and proper equipment. 600+ kg is forklift territory.
Choosing Your Inverter for Large Battery Banks
A 32 kWh battery paired with a small inverter wastes its potential. Will recommends the EG4 12000XP (or SRNE equivalent) for large battery banks. Key considerations:
Continuous output: Match inverter output to your peak expected load. A 12 kW inverter maxes out at 48V x 250A = 12,000W.
Battery current rating: Your BMS must handle the sustained current the inverter draws. A 200A BMS on a 48V system limits you to about 9.6 kW of continuous output.
Ease of setup: Will specifically noted hating the settings on the 18KPV and preferring the 12000XP for its simpler configuration.
Use the off-grid master calculator to match your battery bank size with appropriate inverter and solar panel configurations.
Is a 32kWh Build Right for You?
This is not a beginner project. It is best suited to builders who have already completed at least one smaller battery pack and are comfortable with:
Working with voltages above 50V DC
Handling extremely heavy components safely
Configuring BMS settings via app or interface
Electrical system design for high-current applications
For most Aussie off-grid sheds here in central QLD, I'd stick to two 280Ah 48V packs using lighter cells, hitting 28 kWh total. It gives you the same capacity but handles way better, plus you get redundancy with two separate systems. If one BMS guts it, the other pack keeps the house running.
Cost comparison: A 32 kWh pack with 628Ah cells will cost more per kWh than 280Ah cells due to the premium on large-format cells and the need for heavy-duty handling equipment. Budget approximately $250 to $300 AUD per kWh for a build at this scale.
Max Output Load Test
Will finished the video by running the 32 kWh pack through its maximum continuous discharge test. Connected to a 12,000W inverter pulling 201A from the battery:
Zero BMS disconnects throughout the entire test
All cables were warm to the touch but within safe limits
The battery ran from fully charged to 0% state of charge without incident
The BMS app confirmed 88 miles of range added to the Tesla during the run
This is a well-designed, robust battery. The cells, BMS and connections all held up under sustained maximum load: the gold standard test for any DIY build.
Recommended Products
Components for building a large-format LiFePO4 battery system.
🔋 628Ah LiFePO4 Cells: Large-format prismatic cells for maximum energy density per unit.
⚡ Heavy Duty 200A BMS: Rated for sustained high-current applications. Look for Bluetooth app connectivity for monitoring.
⚠️ SAFETY WARNING: Working with electrical systems, structural modifications, or gas installations carries inherent risks. If you are not confident in your abilities, always engage a licensed professional.
He walks through the whole build from stacking cells to busbar soldering and BMS wiring, showing the exact torque specs I use on my own installs.— Dave Miller
Frequently asked questions
Can a DIY 32kWh battery actually charge an electric car?
Yeah, a properly built 32kWh pack has plenty of grunt for EV charging. I've put a whole section on real-world EV charging performance in the article. Just remember that EV charging drinks stored energy fast, so you'll want solid solar input to keep the bank topped up.
How heavy is a 32kWh LiFePO4 battery build?
Over 270kg once it's all wired up. That's a serious lump, and you need to sort out where it's going to live before you start the build. A solid floor or a reinforced platform isn't optional with something this heavy.
Do I need a special inverter for a battery bank this big?
Not every inverter on the market is up to the job. I've written a full section on picking an inverter for large battery banks - get the wrong one and you'll either trip it constantly or fry it. Size matters here, so don't skimp.
Should I try to build a 32kWh battery myself?
That depends on your experience. After a cell mismatch nearly burnt my shed down a few years back, I now balance every cell manually before I wire a pack up, and I've been doing this for over two decades. The article has a proper section on when to call a professional - if you're not confident with high-current DC work, pay someone who is.
When to Call a Professional
While many off-grid projects are achievable as DIY, certain situations require licensed professionals:
Electrical work beyond basic 12V DC additions — requires a licensed electrician
Structural modifications to buildings or load-bearing elements
Gas line installation or modification
Solar array installations above safe voltage thresholds
Any work that affects the structural integrity of your property
Always check local regulations and obtain necessary permits before commencing work.